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Renovation

End-of-season pitch renovation: the complete guide

7 min read · Updated June 2026

End-of-season renovation is the most important few weeks in the grounds calendar. It is your one clear window to undo a winter of wear, rebuild the sward and set the pitch up to come back stronger. Get it right and the surface plays better all year; skip it and problems compound season on season.

Here is the sequence most professional renovations follow, why each step matters, and what the whole programme tends to cost.

Step 1 — Clean out the old sward

Renovation starts by removing thatch, surface organic matter and weak, worn grass (often shallow-rooted annual meadow grass, or "Poa"). On a lightly worn pitch, heavy scarification in several directions does the job. On a tired or Poa-dominated surface, a Koro or fraise mow — which shaves off the top layer entirely — gives a far cleaner canvas to reseed into.

  • Scarification: good annual reset, less disruptive, lower cost
  • Koro / fraise mowing: a deeper reset for worn or Poa-heavy pitches
  • Both expose soil for good seed-to-soil contact

Step 2 — Relieve compaction

With the surface opened up, aerate to relieve the compaction that built up over the season. Deep-tine work or vertidraining fractures the pan and improves drainage and rooting before you sow. This is also the ideal moment because there is no sward to damage.

Step 3 — Overseed

Sow a quality sports rye mixture into the prepared surface. Seed rates vary with the method and how worn the pitch is, but the priorities are good seed-to-soil contact and warm, moist soil to drive fast, even germination. Dimple seeders and disc seeders place seed into the surface rather than leaving it sitting on top where it dries out or gets eaten.

Step 4 — Top dress

A top dressing of sand or a compatible rootzone restores levels, dilutes organic matter and protects the new seed. Match the dressing to your existing rootzone — putting straight sand onto a soil pitch year after year can create a perched layer, so take advice if you are unsure.

Step 5 — Feed and water

A balanced starter fertiliser gets the new grass established, and consistent moisture during germination is non-negotiable — a renovation that dries out at the wrong moment is wasted money. If you do not have irrigation, time the work to the weather or arrange temporary irrigation.

Timing: most natural-turf renovations are done from late May to early July, when soil temperatures are high enough for rapid germination and there is still a long growing window before the new season.

What does a full renovation cost?

A full programme varies widely with pitch size, the method chosen and how much seed and dressing goes down. As a broad, indicative range, expect anywhere from around £2,500 for a straightforward scarify-and-overseed up to £8,000 or more for a full Koro, heavy top dressing and premium seed. Materials — particularly sand and seed — are a big part of the bill.

The only way to a real figure is a quote against your actual pitch. Post a brief describing the surface and the work you want, and verified contractors will price it for you.

Common questions

How long before the pitch is playable again?

A scarify-and-overseed renovation can knit in within a few weeks in good growing conditions. A full Koro reset needs longer — typically several weeks to a couple of months — because you are growing a sward back almost from scratch.

Do I need a Koro or will scarification do?

If the pitch still has a reasonable base of good grass, annual heavy scarification keeps it healthy. If it is dominated by annual meadow grass, badly worn or uneven, a Koro gives a much better long-term result.

Can renovation be done in spring instead?

Light spring work is common, but the main renovation is best done in early summer when soil is warm and there is a long window for the new grass to mature before play resumes.

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